Royal Enfield Genuine Throttle Cable Assembly (Accelerator Cable) for Hunter 350 (J-Series/BS6) – RAL00247/F (also seen as RAL00247/D)

The Throttle Cable Assembly (Accelerator Cable) connects your Hunter 350’s throttle grip to the throttle body, translating wrist input into smooth engine response. A worn, frayed, sticky, or stretched cable can cause a heavy throttle, delayed return, inconsistent idle, or even unsafe throttle “hang.” This genuine-spec replacement restores factory feel, correct free-play, and reliable snap-back—especially important for daily city riding and long tours where throttle control matters most.

This part is commonly searched as “Hunter 350 throttle wire,” “accelerator cable,” “throttle cable assy,” and “throttle control cable.” Some catalogs also show the same base part number as RAL00247/D (revision suffix varies by batch/catalog), so matching by your old cable/connector is critical.

Before you buy: Confirm your bike is Hunter 350 (J-Series) and match the routing + end fittings with your existing cable (share a photo if unsure).

Key Features

• Genuine-spec Throttle Cable Assembly for precise throttle response

• Correct inner-wire pull length and housing length for proper free-play

• Smooth throttle return helps prevent sticking / throttle hang

• Designed for OE-style routing to reduce kinks and premature wear

• Reliable end fittings for throttle grip + throttle body connection

• Best fix for heavy throttle, jerky pickup, and delayed throttle return

• Helps maintain consistent idle when the old cable is stretched/fraying

• Revision suffix may appear as RAL00247/F or RAL00247/D (match physically)

Compatibility Table 

Explicit exclusions (return-prevention): Not confirmed for Meteor 350 / Classic 350 Reborn / Bullet 350 J unless you verify by VIN + old cable match.

Variants
No variants.

FAQs 

Q1 (Fitment): How do I confirm this throttle cable fits my Hunter 350?
Match 3 things: (1) throttle-grip end fitting, (2) throttle-body end fitting, and (3) overall routing/length of the outer housing. Share a clear photo of both ends of your old cable for confirmation.

Q2 (Fitment): My catalog shows RAL00247/D but you mention RAL00247/F—what’s correct?
Both appear in catalogs/seller listings for “Throttle Cable Assy” under the same base number. The letter suffix is typically a revision/batch. Buy by matching the physical cable and bike model, not only the suffix.

Q3 (Comparison): OEM/genuine-spec vs local aftermarket throttle cable—what’s the real difference?
Genuine-spec cables usually hold correct pull length and liner smoothness longer, which keeps throttle return predictable and reduces fraying/stretching—key for safety and consistent idle.

Q4 (Installation): Can I install it at home? What tools are needed?
Yes, if you’re comfortable with basic controls. Typical tools: 8/10mm spanners, screwdriver set, and patience for clean routing. Ensure correct free-play at the throttle and verify full lock-to-lock steering does not tug the cable.

Q5 (Symptoms): What problems does a new throttle cable fix?
Heavy throttle, delayed throttle return, sticky feel, uneven pickup, throttle not snapping back, and sudden changes in idle due to a stretched/fraying inner wire.

Q6 (Returns-prevention): What should I send you to confirm fitment before dispatch?
Send: bike model/year + a photo of your old cable both ends + a photo of the throttle body area. If available, share last 6 digits of VIN for cross-checking.